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Noodle shop in Binh Duong delights diners with timeless Fujian recipe for three generations

Wednesday, August 07, 2024, 19:17 GMT+7
Noodle shop in Binh Duong delights diners with timeless Fujian recipe for three generations
A serving of Mrs. Ho’s noodles in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

A noodle shop delights customers with its traditional Fujian noodles, a cherished recipe passed down through three generations, ensuring a timeless flavor that keeps diners coming back to Binh Duong Province in southern Vietnam. 

Nestled in a quiet alley beside the Bach Dang River in Binh Duong, Minh and his wife’s small noodle shop has been serving customers for over 70 years.

Originally founded by Minh’s grandmother, Mrs. Ho, the shop is now primarily run by Minh’s wife.

With a growing customer base, they have had to hire additional assistants, but Minh and his wife still personally handle the preparation of their traditional Fujian noodles.

A serving of Mrs. Ho’s noodles in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

A serving of Mrs. Ho’s noodles in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

3-generation noodles

Fujian noodles, originating in Fujian Province in China, are known for their thick, chewy texture, and rich flavor. 

Mrs. Ho, having mastered this recipe, introduced these unique noodles to the people of Binh Duong with a special dish named in her honor.

“When my grandmother was running the shop, everyone in the family pitched in, working hard to make a profit rather than hiring outside help,” Minh recalled. 

This dedication is a hallmark of Chinese family-run businesses.

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

After his grandmother’s passing, the shop was primarily managed by Minh’s two aunts.

When Minh had just graduated from high school, he began taking over the family business.

His initial tasks were simple -- serving, cleaning, and sweeping.

Minh explained that making these special noodles involves a basic mix of flour, salt, and water.

He carefully selects the flour from a trusted supplier, a tradition that has continued since his grandmother’s time. 

Initially, Minh’s grandmother and aunts kneaded the dough by hand. 

“Though kneading by hand is time-consuming and laborious, it is essential for achieving the right texture,” Minh said. 

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

As the number of customers grew, hand-kneading became impractical, so Minh and his wife decided to use a machine. 

“The only difference now is the use of the machine; everything else remains unchanged because this is a cherished family recipe,” Minh said.

Many customers have asked to buy the noodles to take home and enjoy later, but Minh is reluctant to sell them that way. 

He believes the noodles are at their best when eaten fresh, so he only prepares them to sell the same day. 

Without preservatives, the noodles can spoil quickly if not consumed promptly. 

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

When asked about the future of Mrs. Ho’s recipe, Minh said, “If my children choose to continue the business, I will pass it on to them.

“Otherwise, I won’t force them.”

To preserve the family tradition, he has decided that if his children are not interested in continuing the shop, he will close it rather than teach the recipe to his employees.

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Catering to each diner

Every day, Minh and his wife rise at 3:00 am to prepare the ingredients and begin simmering the broth.

Minh explains that to achieve the ideal sweetness, the broth needs to be cooked slowly with bones for a while.

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Noodles are handmade at Mrs. Ho’s shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Although Minh maintains the traditional recipe for the noodles, broth, and dipping sauce from his grandmother’s era -- cooking with meat and bones -- he customizes the seasoning to suit individual tastes. 

Minh takes care to remember the preferences of regular customers: older patrons tend to prefer rich flavors with less sweetness, while younger diners often enjoy sweeter dishes.

This attention to detail ensures that each customer receives their ideal flavor.

For three generations, Mrs. Ho’s simple noodles have been beloved by many. 

A serving of Mrs. Ho’s noodles is in the making in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

A serving of Mrs. Ho’s noodles is in the making in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Minh fondly remembers a regular customer who, nearly 80 years old, once asked him, “Back then, my father used to bring me here to eat, but why don’t I remember you?”

Minh laughed and replied that those were the days when his grandmother ran the shop, and he was not even born yet.

“I preferred the old version of the noodles, but they still have the shop’s unique flavor now, with a slightly sweet taste that suits me,” said Duong, a student who has been a regular for eight years.

As Minh reflects on his journey, pride lights up his eyes: “Everyone has different tastes, so I feel fortunate that my seasoning method resonates with the majority.”

Customers dine-in at Mrs. Ho’s noodle shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Customers dine at Mrs. Ho’s noodle shop in Binh Duong Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

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