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In Ho Chi Minh City, ‘bún riêu cua’ shop serves up to 400 liters of broth daily

Thursday, October 10, 2024, 14:42 GMT+7
In Ho Chi Minh City, ‘bún riêu cua’ shop serves up to 400 liters of broth daily
Nga sells ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) at her shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh

A ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) shop in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City is a favorite haunt for local foodies, especially those looking for a bowl of hot soup on chilly, rainy days.

The crab vermicelli shop at Q32 Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4 has been a favorite for Saigonese foodies since it first opened in 1988.

According to Nga, the owner, first-time visitors to her shop are often unsure of which portion size to order but usually wind up with the 'regular' option as the 'special' portion is way too much to finish.

And it is easy to see why.

The regular-size bowl is brimming with sausage, blood pudding, tofu, tomatoes, a crab meatball, and tons of veggies. 

“I always order a small bowl, as the large one is too big and I’m afraid I can’t finish it,” said Thanh, a 70-year-old Ho Chi Minh City resident who has been a regular at Nga’s shop for nearly 20 years. 

A regular serving of ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) at Nga’s shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre

A regular serving of ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) at Nga’s shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh

Served piping hot from a continuously boiling pot, the broth is incredibly fresh. 

Nga goes through about eight 50-liter pots of broth, 45 kilograms of pork leg, and 60 kilograms of pork daily.

The secret to her success, she said, is her special technique of pulling flavor from pork meat and bones rather than relying on sugar. 

The crab meatballs are also a particularly special addition to the dish.

Each is made from a mix of field crabs, pork, and shrimp.

They are crispy, rather than soft, thanks to Nga’s secret method of frying them before putting them in the steamer.

According to diners, while the dish is great, the fried tofu topping can be hit-or-miss.  

If left out for too long, it becomes soggy and loses its crunch.

A large pot of broth at Nga’s ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre

A large pot of broth at Nga’s ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh  

Nga also uses whole tomatoes in her dish to make sure that they do not break apart while the broth boils. 

In this fashion, diners can mash the tomatoes themselves, releasing their tangy juice throughout the broth.

Each table at Nga’s restaurant is stocked with sugar, lemon, chili, shrimp paste, and tamarind juice, allowing customers to season their dishes to their liking.

Ruoc, 56, has been visiting Nga’s vermicelli stall regularly since discovering it about two months ago. 

“The broth here is perfectly seasoned, the blood pudding is tender, and the prices are affordable,” Ruoc said. 

“I can’t drive by without stopping for a bowl.”

Sausage, pork leg, pork skin, and vegetables are served alongside bowls of ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) at Nga’s shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre

Sausage, pork leg, pork skin, and vegetables are served alongside bowls of ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) at Nga’s shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh 

Nga has kept her recipe and shop unchanged for the past 36 years.

“I could renovate, but I don’t want to make customers feel uncomfortable,” she explained. “I want them to come here for the food, not to be distracted by the décor.”

A bowl of vermicelli at Nga’s stall sells for VND33,000 (US$1.33) to VND62,000 ($2.5), depending on the size. 

Though more and more minced crab vermicelli shops open across Ho Chi Minh City, Nga has managed to retain a loyal customer base thanks to building a brand based on quality and care.

Nga’s ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre

Nga’s ‘bún riêu cua’ (Vietnamese minced crab vermicelli soup) shop on Nguyen Huu Hao Street in District 4, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh 

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