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3-decade-old ‘bánh bèo’ shop in southern Vietnam draws int'l, local visitors

Tuesday, September 24, 2024, 12:21 GMT+7
3-decade-old ‘bánh bèo’ shop in southern Vietnam draws int'l, local visitors
A plate of ‘bánh bèo’ is served at a makeshift shop in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Visitors to Long Binh Temple in Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam often hear about a beloved bánh bèo dish sold by a local lady for over the past three decades.

Every day at 2:00 pm, the small bánh bèo shop in front of the temple in the district’s Long Dien Town, 16km from Vung Tau City, the former capital of Ba Ria-Vung Tau, buzzes with activity.

Owner Thao has operated without a name or sig; instead, locals affectionately refer to it as Long Binh Temple bánh bèo.

Bánh bèo is a Vietnamese dish that originated in Hue, a city in central Vietnam. 

The English translation for bánh bèo is 'water fern cake.' 

It is a popular street food across Vietnam. 

Although the Long Binh Temple bánh bèo shop is located away from the Vung Tau city center, many locals recommend it when asked about delicious dining spots.

Upon ordering a plate of bánh bèo, diners are immediately struck by its vibrant presentation.

A makeshift ‘bánh bèo’ shop stands the test of time in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

A makeshift ‘bánh bèo’ shop stands the test of time in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Made out of a combination of rice flour and tapioca flour, the pure white layers of the bánh bèo are beautifully complemented by colorful toppings like scallion oil, mung beans, minced shrimp, and pork skin, with the highlight being plump meatballs.

The meatballs are made simply with minced meat and diced pork skin, rolled firmly and perfectly seasoned.

They are fresh, soft, and tender, avoiding any dryness. 

A key ingredient that has stood the test of time in this dish is the shredded pork skin.

Full of fresh flavor, it proves that only a light touch of spice is used in marinating and seasoning.

The shredded pork skin is cut into pieces that are just the right size -- not too small or too large -- allowing diners to enjoy the delightful crunch of the skin fibers with each spoonful of bánh bèo and its toppings.

Meatballs are the highlight of the ‘bánh bèo’ dish at a makeshift shop in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Meatballs are the highlight of the ‘bánh bèo’ dish at a makeshift shop in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Unlike the other ingredients, scallion oil and mung beans tantalize the senses with their aromas.

While scallion oil has a familiar scent, the mung beans offer a particularly fragrant note.

They are finely ground, spongy, and sticky, adding a subtle fragrance without making the dish feel heavy.

Thao prefers spreading a layer of mung beans on each piece of cake to forming a thin round layer around the plate. 

With a discerning palate, diners will notice that most ingredients have a light or mild flavor, creating a harmonious balance with the dipping fish sauce.

The overall taste is crafted to appeal to the preferences of southern Vietnamese cuisine.

Thao started making bánh bèo out of a personal craving, with no intention of opening a business.

After perfecting her recipe through a few attempts, she decided to sell her creations.

In those early years, the shop was tucked away, deep in an alley next to Long Binh Temple.

Over time, she moved closer to the main road, eventually settling at the alley entrance, where she still sells today.

Shredded pork skin is a key ingredient of the ‘bánh bèo’ dish at a makeshift shop in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Shredded pork skin is a key ingredient of the ‘bánh bèo’ dish at a makeshift shop in front of Long Binh Temple in Long Dien Town, Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, southern Vietnam. Photo: Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre

Until recently, her main customers were locals, but after she gained attention on social media, international diners began to visit. This led to a wider range of reviews and opinions for the shop.

“She sells near my house; I’ve been eating her bánh bèo since she sold it from her bicycle -- it’s hard to believe it’s been over 10 years!” one longtime customer reminisced.

“I’m from Phuoc Tinh Commune [in Long Dien District, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province], and whenever someone heads to Long Dien Town, I ask them to pick some up for me,” a diner from farther away said.

Many people humorously remarked that they must not be destined to enjoy Thao’s bánh bèo, as it always seems to be sold out every time they arrive.

“The shop used to sell delicious food; I could eat three plates at a time,” another commented. 

“Now the taste isn’t quite the same.” 

Some diners noted that the way the cakes are presented is not attractive, making them less appetizing.

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Bao Anh - Dang Khuong / Tuoi Tre News

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